Let’s just talk for a brief moment about the annoying morning that began with the restless half-sleep full of sand and wind… Because it really, really looked like it was about to be my first bad day on the trip. No sleep. Early morning. The weather was foggy and cloudy. And when I hit the waves, I didn’t catch a single good ride.
Now, I did get chewed up and spit out by a couple of gnarly waves. In fact, I think that I got the worst bruise that I’ve ever received in my entire life when I caught a fin to the arm. HARD. And I gotta say that when I look at this picture, I count myself lucky for having purchased that new “flexible” high quality wetsuit. ‘Cause if I was wearing that 14 year-old piece of orange and blue crap, the fin probably would have split open my wetsuit and a good chunk of my upper arm…
